Up and running again

My new receiver arrived and I’ve stuck it all together and taken it for a spin.

I used the programming card to set for slow acceleration and only 50% total power. The acceleration was very smooth and it was much nicer to ride. I will however have to bump it up over 50% power as it was a little on the sluggish side.

The Abec 11 wheels are nice & its handy having such large wheels as the path I was on had lots of cracks/twigs.



2013-07-09_09-40-18 2013-07-09_09-40-12

Was powering along rather nicely (however one of my wheel bolts was loosing itself) until i once again found the weakest link in my board. The screw mounting……

I kinda knew that the screw mounting wasn’t the most secure mounting method and that I should get it welded but I haven’t really go around to it. Anyway. One of the screws pulled out and the other tore off.



IMAG0362 IMAG0363

While not ideal, I’m not so worried about it all because I think the setup is working nice now and the I new that the mount would need to be welded. The ESC, motor, belt, speed, acceleration and wheels all seem to be working nicely.

(Not 100% happy with the noise of the ESC fan but it’s fine if it keeps this one from blowing. Also you don’t notice once you’re rolling)

133 thoughts on “Up and running again”

  1. I don’t know if u know how to weld Aluminium of even if u got a torch for that so my last say was going to be try epoxy putty to fix the plate ! I did on mine seems pretty strong ! But it’s the last choice welding with some Aluminium rods will be way simpler build but if u have done before and have what is need!

    1. You need a tig welder to weld ali/composite metals.

      I will take it to a welders as I don’t have a tig. (They’re expensive)

      You can also get little rods that you can heat snag melt with a stanard torch Aluminium but there hard to find

  2. Happy to see you back up and running. Too bad it broke so fast. I have been waiting for this post for a long time :).
    Have you thought about/tried to drill a hole through the trucks and then tap a thread? or in the worst case, drill a through hole and use a bolt/nut to fix your motor mount. Just use a small diameter bolt not to structurally weaken the truck. I will employ a similar strategy on my build. Check for updates here electricboard.blogspot.com

    1. I had trouble getting through the steel. My hand drill makes it hard to put a hole in the hardened steel shaft to screw right through. ๐Ÿ™ Good idea though

  3. By the way, is this dollar tree velcro? how has been that holding up? is it enough to fix your electronics, battery …. on the board?
    I have had it pulling off every so often on my foam airplanes. Is it better on the bamboo?

    1. It’s velcro but I screwed the Velcro to the board for the battery. It holds fine however I should have purchased two 3 cell batteries got clearance

      1. I am getting 2x4S batteries. I will hook them up in parallel. It should result in a lower top RPM. I will have 10Ah at 14.8v nominal. I will write up the details on my blog once I get the chance :).

      2. I’ll be using one 5000mah 3S and one 5000mah 4S in series. Effectively a 7S which is pretty much max voltage before needing an HV ESC. If I need more range I’ll parallel another 3S and another 4S. If anyone else decides to do this though, make sure both batteries are the same C rating, probably even the same brand and model to be safe. I’ll also be fixing a sheet of 0.3 gal to the bottom of my deck. Have you ever seen a LiPo explode? It would probably burn right through the deck if the batteries took a knock.

      3. Don’t forget Andrew, with 2 x 4S in parallel you’ll only have two thirds the torque of a 6S. If you want to reduce top RPM you’re far better off getting a lower kV motor than undervolting a higher kV one.


      4. As far as I understand, I will have the exact same response from the motor except my max throttle will be 2/3 compared to a 6S. That means, I will have the same everything, except for max power and max RPM, but I will get the same low rpm torque.
        This is the lowest kv motor I found in the power range I am looking at (around 1000w). The minimum gear ration I can get on 70mm wheels is 3:1, otherwise my big pulley will scuff the ground (69mm diameter). Considering price and everything else, it would make sense buying this motor.
        In addition to that, motors are most efficient at 40-70% throttle setting. This translates to 50-100% in my setup given the lower voltage.
        Afterall, this is all theory, I can’t say anything with confidence until I put it together and ride it :D. My motor,battery,speed control are in Canada already :). So we’re looking at riding it next week.

  4. Sorry about the many comments, but I have a question. How do you set the maximum 50% throttle on the ESC? if you used the programming card (which I don’t have), do you know if this is possible to program through a button on the ESC or through the Tx?

    1. Thtought the programming car. I don’t think you can program otherwise as I don’t think it has buttons. I purchased 2 by accident. If you want me to post I can. (However I live in australia so it will take a while)

      1. I really appreciate the offer man. It’s so nice of you. Unfortunately, I bought a different ESC, so I don’t think your card would work with it. As far as I can see from the hobbyking website, it doesn’t have maximum throttle setting, so I will have to do with 100%. Also it should be programmable via a tiny switch on the ESC itself, so I shouldn’t need the programming card (although the card is easier/faster). I won’t know anything for sure until I receive it though.

  5. Now u are using a Car esc so this one have reverse but the other esc u have how it was did have any breaking with reverse throttle ? My project uses a servo tester so didn’t have a reverse to try also my esc was a 40a non brand now I got a hk ss70a says it have breaking but no reverse ! I really want to get a radio for breaking but still have no much idea if my esc will works

    1. The reverse and/or braking functionality have nothing to do with the transmitter or servo tester. Let me try to explain. A transmitter/receiver combination, or a servo tester’s job is to generate a Pulse-Width Modulated (PWM) signal on the signal wire of the ESC. That’s it. The pulse translates to a value between -100 to +100 if you will. Any servo tester or transmitter/receiver combination will be able to generate that signal.
      Now comes the job of the ESC to decide what to do based on that signal. Airplane ESCs don’t have reverse (or at least I am not aware of any that do) because it is of no use to rotate a propeller backwards. But they have brakes, this is useful for gliders so that the propeller will be stopped and thus will be able to fold in case of a folding propeller or at least a stationary prop creates less drag than a moving one. Normally this braking is an On-Off option, you cannot really control how much braking there is, and it is applied when the throttle is at idle. i.e. somewhere between -100 and -80.
      A car ESC however deals with the signal coming from the Tx/Rx or servo signal differently. Idle is considered to be around 0, -1 to -100 will give you braking, the strength varies depending on how far you are in the negative. And 1 to 100 will give you throttle depending on how far you are in the positive. Reverse is normally activated by braking until the car stops, move the throttle to zero, then move it back into the negative, this will generate reverse motion proportional to how far you are in the negative. So, when it comes to braking, I believe the best you can get out of your HK SS ESC will be braking that will be applied whent he throttle is at zero.

  6. I will test the 3 modes on my servo tester in “auto mode” this drives the signal servo back an forth to see the results ! If my motor runs backward I’ll buy a car transmitter =]

      1. This I already know ! I just want find reverse in signal before buying a transmitter ! Check out how I modded my Ecs so far http://instagram.com/p/bzn6cegYPK/ custom UBEC since here in Rio I can’t find any thing for the project I used a regulator 5v and I’m using a 63a switch breaker to turn on and protect over load the sistem! Check the video

  7. Did you have the problem of the motor shaking loose while riding? After about 10 minutes of riding my belt isn’t tight anymore. I tried split lock washers under the bolts and I am still having the same problem. Any suggestions?

  8. So does this ESC, and transmitter/receiver combo give you the ability to brake? If so, how?

    Thanks in advance

    1. It has braking. Both car and plane ESC have a braking features. This ESC has a various braking strength settings. I set it very weak to start with as my previous ESC had breaking but it stopped so suddenly it threw me off the board.

      Basically on the receiver you press forward to brake. This tells the ESC to slow the timing of the motor.

      Brushless motors work by a sequenced firing of the magnetic polarity of the motor. They have magnets around the outside which the ESC switched the polarity of in a timed sequence. The switching sequence either speeds up or slows down to accelerate or brake. In brushed motors the switching of polarity was handled by a physical contact inside the motor. Hence motor power given the the motor the faster they go. Les power they go slower but they don’t breaking feature. With brushless motors in contrast don’t work without a ESC because it handles all the switching. But they can also handle breaking.

      I hope that made sense.

  9. So I finally managed to put mine together today. I took it for the first hundred meter ride. I am facing some little problems. I’m running a 1000 watt motor. I was going up a very slight slope, the motor was screeching a bit and was not supplying enough power, then the cloud of smoke appeared. The motor is still working, but it got pretty hot to the point of smoking. I suspect it might have to download with the esc timing that is making the motor super inefficient at low rpm. Have you had any similar experiences?

      1. Let me ask you something. According to your best judgement, do you think my 1000w motor is too weak for the application?

        1. 1000W should be plenty of power. Evolve boards use a 200W motor and most of the shitty chinese boards ones are 400w-800w.

          Most home builders are using in the 2000w range only because their is a good selection of cheap low kv motors at that power range. The amount of power that comes out of mine 2200W which is a massive overkill.

      2. Let me ask you something else. Do you feel that the power you have is an overkill even at low speeds? i.e. What happens if you go slow 10-15 km/h for let’s say 1 km. Does the motor heat up? Does it make a kind of squeak or slightly high pitch noise? Read my comment at the bottom of the page.

        1. I felt no heat in the motor even when I blew my previous ESC.

          No squeaks from the motor lately. However, when I had the small teeth belt (3mm) I had a lot of slipping of the drive cog on the motor shaft. How I fixed this was I drilled a very small indent in the shaft of the motor (using a regular drill bit). This give the grub screw of the small cog something to sit in and stopped the small cog from spinning under load.

    1. Good luck man I’m working with a 3542 700w turnigy and so far the tests was pretty impressive but from scratch build there’s a lot to tweak to get the best of in efficiency I’m talking about rpm,weight,power… The list goes on and on hope we all doing these projects can the best of our build and also share our reviews of our build ! Want see my project youtube search Lipevolcom brushless skate

    2. I wouldn’t expect any RC motor at 1000 watts to pull you up any steep hills. I’m currently running 2x 63mm motors at 3250 watts each. 6500 watts total using 10S and it climbs up the most steepest of hills.

    1. I have a similar experience. I am running this http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14740__Turnigy_L3040A_480G_Brushless_Motor.html motor on a 4S setup. This one is lower kv than the one you are suggesting and it has a similar wattage (1000w). I am currently having trouble at low speeds, the motor kinda squeaks, not very loud, but there is something that I would call fast clicking, high pitch hum, I will try to record it and upload it. And the motor is overheating at slow speeds. It seems to be doing fine when I go faster. My gearing ratio is 0.36 reduction on a 70mm wheel. I am not sure exactly what is the problem, may be it’s an ESC timing problem or something like that. Today I got up to 27 km/h on my board, it does fine after you speed up, but if you spend too much time going slow <10-15 km/h the motor heats up. I know that motors heat up when they are loaded too much. So the problem could be that my gearing is too high or that I need a higher power motor. Eitherway, I will change gearing to 0.27 and try again, if that doesn't work, I will get a bigger motor and try again. I highly suggest that you use a similar setup as explained on this blog since it is know to work well.

  10. Jason Chernioglo

    I love these! ๐Ÿ˜€ I am going to be building one soon, but can you post an updated list of all of the parts that you use?
    Also, does your new ESC support brakes/reverse?
    If it supports brakes, does it actually work good? For example, if I was going down a hill and used the brakes, would it be able to stop me?

    Also, what is the top speed that these can go to? How long does that 5000mah battery last?

    1. The new ESC I have has braking with variable settings. I set this to the lowest setting. I broke the mount recently which I need to weld so I don’t have a great test run on the effectiveness of the brake. My previous ESC had a really strong brake which meant that I was basically thrown off the board. I haven’t tested the brake on the new set up but I don’t think that will be a problem.

    2. Distance and speed….. I will have to fix up my board (the mount broke) and I will post some gps stats.
      Re: top speed. Honestly faster than you want to go without a motorbike helmet. Very fast top speed

  11. Jason Chernioglo

    Also, where and what belt/sprockets did you use? A link would be well appreciated.

    1. Link: https://sdp-si.com

      You could go for a wider belt than this. Also check you cog sizes with this spreadsheet: “http://howtomakeanelectricskateboard.wordpress.com/2013/05/09/calculating-speed/

      A 6R25M064090
      5 mm (HTD) Pitch, 64 Teeth, 9mm wide Single Sided Neoprene Belt with Fiberglass Cords 2 x $8.08 =$16.16

      A 6Z25M016DF0908
      5 mm (HTD) Pitch,16 Teeth, 8mm Bore, Aluminum Insert, Polycarbonate Timing Pulley for 9mm Wide Belt $7.06

      A 6L25M040DF0908
      5 mm (HTD) Pitch,40 Teeth, 8mm Bore, Plain Bore, No Insert, Polycarbonate Timing Pulley for 9mm Wide Belt $5.30
      Subtotal: $28.52 + Freight.

  12. Jason Chernioglo

    I will be purchasing a Loaded Dervish soon and making it electric. ๐Ÿ™‚ Thanks for all of the helpful information. My father owns an auto body, so I will be welding the bracket, and I will tell you how it turns out. I’m sure you can go to any auto body that welds and just ask them. They can do it for $5-15. [If you’re in the Sacramento, CA area I can do it for free ;)]

    Have you had any problems with the belt/cog breaking? I am worried that if i’m going down a hill or something it might just snap. xD

    What other accessories did you get? Programming card?

    Also, I’ve got a youtube channel that I made some go kart plans on, so i’m hoping I might be able to get a sponsorship from HobbyKing or something. (http://www.youtube.com/thecomputerdewd)

    1. No problems with the belt of cog. They seem to be very strong.

      I also purchased a programming card for the ESC. When buying your things don’t forget to buy connectors to join everything together. You will also need a soldering iron.

  13. Jason Chernioglo

    Also, I do all of my projects with gas engines so I dont know too much about the electrical stuff.
    Could you recommend maybe two 3 cell battery’s that I can link in series for a lower profile? Would this have any performance difference?

  14. Jason Chernioglo

    By the way, another option is something called J-B Weld!
    This stuff is cheap and CRAZY STRONG! Its the world strongest bond. Just mix the two together, and let it dry overnight, and it turns harder than STEEL. We use it all the time.

    1. Up that hill might be a little beyond my setups abilities. Maybe a two wheel drive setup would be better if you really needed to climb that hill. Check out the Alien Power systems setups if you need to take on something that big. http://alienpowersystem.com/
      There 6000watt setups will take that on pretty well.

      1. Jason Chernioglo

        Hmm.. I am thinking of going with 1WD for now, and if I need the extra power, get 2WD. If I was to get another motor, as well as another battery, would I be able to hook it all up to the same ESC?

  15. Jason Chernioglo

    Also, in one of your posts you said you had been looking for ways to make the ESC less twitchy. Is that referring to the Red Brick? Or is the new ESC twitchy?

  16. Hey man, remember me asking you all those questions? Well I finished my board today, three days of solid work. Just went five miles averaging 19mph, 26.5mph max! My only issue is stalling out the motors when giving it too much power at once

    1. Jason Chernioglo

      Riff, can you upload pictures? I am very interested, as I will be building one soon.

    2. Mess with the ESC timing options, I hear that the motor could screech then stall if the ESC timing is not right, especially if you floor the throttle. If this is what’s happening, it’s strongly suggested to play with the ESC timing options.

  17. Jason Chernioglo

    Also, a few comments up, you sent me the parts number for the cogs/belt.
    And in this post “http://howtomakeanelectricskateboard.wordpress.com/2013/04/21/re-working-begins/” you posted some suggestions of what you should have done.
    The parts numbers in the comment above, are those what you should have gotten? Or what you got? xD

    1. Given that this has turned into a forum like discussion. I am giving myself the liberty to say my opinion/experience.
      I am using a Turnigy Accucel 6 (50W). It charges my two 5000mAh 4S in parallel in about 3:20h. I highly recommend the Accucel 6, never had any problems with it, have been using it for over 3 months now. If you want faster charging, I hear that the Accucel 8 is also great, it would charge my batteries in slightly over an hour.

      1. Jason Chernioglo

        I see. I usually work with gas engines, never done anything electric before.
        I’ve heard about LiPo’s exploding, so is it possible for it to tell if the battery is charged? Does it stop charging? If I leave it on overnight, will it overcharge?

      2. LiPos will be good to you if you are good to them. Here are the rules of the game:
        Don’t overcharge above 4.2v per cell
        Don’t discharge below 3v per cell
        Don’t puncture or crash
        Don’t draw more than the C rating
        Don’t charge faster than the rating
        Follow the rules and you’ll be perfectly fine. Don’t and all bets are off, the batteries can puff, heat up and in rare cases explode/burst or burn.
        LiPo chargers are smart. i.e. they take every precaution not to break the rules. A LiPo is considered charged when each cell is at 4.2 volts. The chargers automatically stop charging at that. They also have many safety features, like a time limit and a mAh limit. You can charge overnight if you charge in a place where it will be safe if a battery heats up exessively or bursts. i.e. on a concrete floor, in a metal container, in a lipo safe bag … Otherwise it is recommended that you don’t charge lipos unattended.

  18. Jason Chernioglo

    Also, I cant find the links for the product numbers you gave me for the belt/cog.
    What setup is Andrew using?

      1. Jason Chernioglo

        Yes, I see all of the part numbers, but dont see where to search the part number on the website.

  19. Jason Chernioglo

    I have already ordered the cogs/belts.

    I found the rest of my parts on HobbyKing but am turning kind-of skeptical about ordering after seeing all of the bad reviews online..
    I have already have had a bad experience with the customer support. The “live chat” isn’t so live. Takes about 15-30 minutes to get a response.
    I had to remind them to respond about my ticket in the live chat about 4 times before getting a “It will be answered in 24 hours” response. It took 4 days total to receive my response.

    Have you guys had any problems with HobbyKing?

  20. Jason Chernioglo

    I just joined the live chat asking “I am looking into ordering, but will I receive my items or not?” “If not, its not worries, I’ve got a lawyer”

    No response. After about 15 minutes, the “customer support” agent just left.

    1. Well, going to customer support to ask them if they will send you the stuff you still haven’t ordered or not isn’t the question that invites cooperation from them. I made 4 hobbyking orders in total, had only minor problems (i.e. they ones packed 9 instead of 10 servos). They gave me store credit for the missing item after a couple of emails. If you consider the price, you might start to understand why they don’t have the best customer support. You are always free to go to other sources. But for me, ordering every piece twice (assuming half their stuff is broken) is cheaper than ordering it once from somewhere else.

  21. Jason Chernioglo

    I see. Well, I’ve got a youtube channel with over 850k views for a few go kart plans, So I requested a sponsorship. Not sure I will get it, as I sent the request 4 days ago. Think I can get it?

    Also, when asking if I was going to receive my items, I used an anonymous name as well as a VPN, no worries ๐Ÿ˜›

  22. Jason Chernioglo

    Whatever, i’m tired of waiting for them to respond. I just ordered the electronics. Ordered the belt/cog yesterday.
    Just waiting for a nice loaded longboard in a nearby area to come up on craigslist ๐Ÿ™‚

  23. Jason Chernioglo

    Strange.. Both of my orders from HobbyKing have been marked as shipped, and tracking has been added. I checked the tracking number, and one of them is a package delivered in Oct. 2012 to FL, and the second is a package delivered in 2012 to IL. (Im in CA..)

    1. Jason Chernioglo

      Just threatened to call a lawyer if they don’t ship my items within the next 6 hours with correct tracking. 2 hours later, tracking was updated and the item was just shipped ๐Ÿ˜›

  24. Jason Chernioglo

    Also, i’m going to be making some online plans for building this electric longboard.
    And I was wondering if Over and under would let me share the link? There will be forums, text plans, videos, etc.

  25. Jason Chernioglo

    I’ve got all of the electronics in hand, and just ordered a Loaded Dervish Sama! ๐Ÿ™‚ Thanks for this great info, its been VERY helpful!

    Total newbie question >> Also, I noticed the motor wires are Red (+), Black (-), and Yellow, and the ESC has Orange, Blue, Yellow.

    So would it be :
    Orange >> Red
    Yellow >> Yellow
    Blue >> Black?

    Or what would it be? xD

  26. Jason Chernioglo

    I have finished the build. I welded the bracket, mounted the motor, etc. It doesnt seem to be working though.

    The ESC fan turns on, radio binds, but when pushing the throttle, nothing happens.

    1. Did you connect the ESC into the correct channel int he Rx? It should be in channel 2. Try the other ones if 2 doesn’t work.
      Make sure you are not connecting it backwards too.
      Did you set your throttle range?

  27. Jason Chernioglo

    I will try to set the throttle range in a bit.
    Does this motor beep? I havent heard anything from it.

  28. Jason Chernioglo

    The longboard works! Turned out better than I expected! ๐Ÿ˜€

    I have noticed that it speeds up VERY fast. I have a programming card coming in the mail, but its from china, so it will take a while.

    Does the programming card have the function to have smoother acceleration? Does it help?
    Response to over and out :
    Did you mix them VERY VERY VERY wheel? Can you send an image?
    You have to be VERY generous with it. Did you clean the surface that you would be JB Weld-ing very well? Did you give it 24 hours to set without touching it? If it is cooling in COLD weather, it takes up to 2 days to fully cure. You have to be very patient.

    1. You can probably program the ESC using either a button or the transmitter. Read the ESC manual
      It would be great if you can post some photos/videos of your board.

      1. Jason Chernioglo

        Program the acceleration speed?

        I am creating a website for my new channel, and I will have very detailed video plans with pictures.

        The design is coming together quite nicely.
        Check it out here : http://www.powereddiy.com/
        There is also forums.

    1. Just typing on my phone. It probable best if you have a look at some if the earlier blog posts. Ntm 6364 motor with the lowest kv. And a 1/8 truck with high amps esc. There are a few previous blog posts about it.

      1. Efficiency wise I’m not sure ! Did u what some power analyzer ? I’ve never seen any analyzing their boards ! I have seen lot of people testing their brushless on a bench “I don’t believe it’s accurate cuz it’s a stand still test” I’m testing my Turnigy sk3542 this weekend and see what it can do if I like ill but a 130a power analyzer to wright the numbers and hope finde someone with a standard pulley power results to compare the efficiency ! Only that way I can call the % also when motor stops the dragging force will be no issue

  29. Jason Chernioglo

    Hey over and out, I was wondering what your programming setup was for the ESC?
    I changed the initial acceleration to low, and it just made the entire thing super sluggish.
    The throttle cap also makes it sluggish, even when at 90%.

    1. The throttle cap should be a lower number like 20% or 30%. Not 90%. It’s a measure of the cap. Hence 90% means it taking away 90% of the power.
      I’ve kept the acceleration at very slow and I’m happy enough with the take off speed.

  30. Over and Out Dude Epoxy putty ! Will never goes out unless u beat a hammer several times ! I had a hard time to destroy my truck mount the wood broke easily but the epoxy stays there so Aluminium to Aluminium will not broke ever! Do it man easy fix for your mount!!

  31. The only date base I can get so far is that standard 800w boards have 3x 12v 12a batteries so its 432Wh and they run for 1:30hrs so comes about they do 288w ! My propelled board is around 500 600w with the 9×6 prop so I’m about 50% efficiency of a traditional 1WD board ! I still need to improve more on these numbers about how much efficiency can go with prop selection an motor size !

    1. My board has 2x 5000mAh 4S, total 150 Wh. It ran for about 75 minutes for a total distance of 18.6 km. It’s hard to imagine 432Wh would last for 90 minutes only

      1. Standard boards uses older motors I guess even brushed so those are the specs of them ! In your setup it’s really ever more hard to believe only 130 140w on the motor ! In consider 749w is a HP ur having a great Eco setup going on

      2. My first eletric board was a Drill powered 5wheel machine and on 150w I could get only 15kph u can look on YouTube so it’s hard to believe on a 150w board to be all that amazing there’s something else going on

      3. You got me wrong here, I have a 1000w brushless motor on the board. total battery power of 150 Watt/hour (Wh). I was able to cruise around for 75 minutes. I don’t cruise at full throttle of course, my average is as you calculated correction somewhere around 130w. I assume that at my top speed of 32 km/h I was using well above 130w of power. Given my 150Wh battery and 18.6 km range, I use about 8Wh per km.
        My stats are very consistent with other electric boards, for example evolve longboards has a 7Ah 36v battery, which is 252Wh. They have a range of about 30km. Which puts their economy at 8.4 Wh/km, very close to mine.

      4. What ration u are using for the cogs and your wheel size? I build one with 2 to 1 ratio with a 80mm wheel using a 700w 1250kv outrunner and I got nice speed with the board after push starting my initial speed however I was using a 40a esc and after few min and maybe 10km run Bom Ecs burned my speed I guess was about 25 to 30kph what I really should have is a 3 or 4 to 1 ratio ! Any way soon ill get a 5050 size motor 2000w and a 130A meter to Data log power consumption between 1WD and a propelled since this motor can do 3x the Kg force mine does! I really liked the idea and the felling of riding a propelled so I wanna try to bring efficiency to him

      5. I am using 40T and 12T pulleys. and 70mm wheels. 1000w 480kv motor. 9mm HTD5 belt.
        If you want my advice, go for 12T pulley and as big as you can on the wheel side with a clearance of about 2-3mm on each side. i.e. pulley flange diameter should be 5-6mm smaller than wheel diameter. Get everything in 15mm, pulleys and belt. And buy the 50-60 motor over and under is using.
        Make sure that using over and under’s excel sheet, you get a top speed of somewhere around 32-35 km/h when using the recommended number of cells for the motor, this could mean that you need a lower kv motor. I find that my motor has too high of a kv. i.e. I cannot reach the top speed because it’s too fast, and i can’t climb hills because the torque is too low.

      6. For propeller efficiency, you want to do go more towards a lower kv motor with a larger flatter pitch prop. However that might mean that you will need to go with an 18″ death trap spinning a few inches from your leg. May be a sort of cage for the prop would make it a little bit safer.

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