Electric skateboard component list [2018]- the electronics

*I’ve update this blog post so many times it feels strange but here is are some of the components and cost that it takes to build you’re own electronic skateboard.*

While you could got for a motor in wheel hub motor option explain a belt and drive model because at this stage they’re better.

Motor: USD $90-100 (per motor)

Out runner Brushless motor. (when in doubt more power 2000W). Go for a low KV motor kv = revolutions per minute around the 200 kv). For details check out here

Electric skateboard component list [2018]- the electronics 1

ESC: USD $100

In an electric speed controller you need anything that can handle the huge amount of amps coming through it. Since I wrote this blog originally this part has come a long way. The open source VESC design from Ben Vedder pretty much went from re-purposing RC car materials to purpose built ESC off the rack which is great. More of ESC here

Electric skateboard component list [2018]- the electronics 2

Controller: USD $35

Purpose built micro controllers are great. Super cheap from Aliecpress China. More on that here

Electric skateboard component list [2018]- the electronics 3

Battery: USD $40-70

The number of batteries you using is a balance between range/power and weight. You’re looking at LiPo or LiPo4 batteries packs.  These are commonly used in car/plane battery packs. In addition to just any old batteries your looking for batteries with a nice cost / C value. C = in how quickly a battery can give back it’s power. Electronic skateboards take a lot of power quickly.  Also you’re looking for a lowish profile battery pack that you can strap to the bottom of the board.

Most people look at 3 cell pacs wired in series. Hobbyking.com is a good place to lookg for batteries

Batteries are explain like this: 2200mAh 3S 35C

  • mAH = total amount of power it holds = range
  • 3s = 3 cells
  • 35c = how quickly it gives up the juice.

I must have a post more about this right?

Electric skateboard component list [2018]- the electronics 4

Belts and cogs:  USD $50

You could go hub drive or chain drive but at this point I still think that belt drive is the best option. A few years back this was a problem for me but there are a number of good kits on this.

i have another page on that 

Motor mount: USD $50 – $110

For this one your could do it yourself or buy a kit. I’ve got more detail about that here. 

Electric skateboard component list [2018]- the electronics 5

Electric skateboard component list [2018]- the electronics 6

63 thoughts on “Electric skateboard component list [2018]- the electronics”

  1. Imo the Lipo is way too small for that motor, note the motor specs: Cell count: 5~7 Lipoly. The guys at boostet board use 5-6 sell liopo, and they only get run time about 20 minutes. Don’t remember exactly, what lipo they use, on one vid you can see lipos balance charger plug, there were like 6 or 7 wires.

    For controller I would use Arduino + Wii wireless nunchuck. It’s way cooler, smaller, and better to hold in hand while driving. One vid here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMYhUHeX5Fg There are many tutorials also how to use Wii nunchuck and control Esc via Arduino.
    If you know something about electronics I would go for that.

    And motor seems little small for fully grown men? 😀 For climing hills etc. Too much load on it, if you would use 2 then it’s okay. I would choose something like this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__23521__NTM_Prop_Drive_50_60_Series_380KV_2665W.html

    Just some thoughts, let me if you try this setup, Lipo is for sure way too low, try aming at 5000mAh and atleast 5 cells. For Lipo you can later try different setups after board is done, but it’s harder to change the motor.

    I have a plan to build my own also, atm too much work and other projects unfinished, but trying to finish it this winter 🙂 here it’s going to snow soon 🙂 Have looked some setups also, cheap board form ebay- UK seller for me, I live in eastern Europe. Esc is the same, motor atleast 2000W and will use wireless nunchuck from ebay.

    1. You right about the batteries. I was planning on wiring two lots together so they weren’t in a giant block. But still they could be a bit light one in the mAh department.

      This one block should do fine. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__21406__ZIPPY_Compact_3300mAh_6S_35C_Lipo_Pack_.html 3300mAh 35C = 115.5A, $44
      Or Turnigy nano-tech 4000mah 6S 25~50C Lipo Pack =100A, $50
      Or ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 6S1P 25C =100A, $45

      good point about the motor choice. Other peoples projects I’ve seen and commercial ones online seem to only have lower powered motors e.g. Electro-skate are running 600W motor. However, you’re right once the motor is mounted your stuck with it. So maybe bigger is better as long as its not going to pull to many amps for your ESC and batteries. The one your suggesting 2000W 22.2v 90A will work with the ESC and battery at $45 why not? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__23521__NTM_Prop_Drive_50_60_Series_380KV_2665W.html

      The Wii blue tooth controller looks like an interesting side project on its own.

    2. Yup, very cool controller, but idk, phone in your hand while sk8boarding? what if you fell-you’ll broke your expensive smartphone + it doesn’t feel so good in one hand? Uncomfortable… This could be an alternative controller, like you can use speedometer in there etc.

      That’s why I picked nunchuck, been working on it few days, programmed via arduino, took out the chip: Atmega328PU, and used these two 2.4GHz wireless transceiver modules: http://www.ebay.com/itm/140729184907?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649, this small LiPo: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=23317, and a RGB led for indicating battery life.
      Going to add a mini USB jack and little lipo charging circuit, so I can easily charge it, hoping to fit all that in one nunchuck-it’s a tight fit 🙂

      Easier way would be to buy a wireless nunchuck, so you only need one atmega chip for receiving signals-controller is basically ready to use. But I had parts laying around and I really like to build things myself.

      Atm only controlling Leds with my wireless nunchuck, going to try controlling brushless motor via ESC/arduno soon.

      Another thing I have been thinking is about braking, to use motor braking? Doesn’t motor get hot? I even don’t know hot to use braking with ESC. Sending positive charge to all 3 wires? Have to look into it.

      When you order the electronics? Can’t wait how it turns out, don’t want to order them before you do haha 😀 don’t really wanna “invest” on it, trying to get best motor/Lipo combo at first try 😉

      1. Yeah I thought it might be a little strange holding your phone in your hand trying to control. And what if your listening on headphone and want to change the songs?

        I haven’t looked much into the braking situation as yet. However, I believe most of the ESC have braking functionality as its required when
        racing RC cars.

        I’m delaying ordering the electronics as I need to save some money this month. I’m not so worried about the electronic. Most of the kit I’m planning on using is standard RC parts.

        However, I’m most concerned about the mount of the motor. I’m just going to order the motor first then see if I can get it mounted on my cheap board. I need to take the motor and truck to a Tig welder to first cut/machine a piece of metal for the bracket then weld it in place. That’s the problematic part at the moment. Tig welding in Australia isn’t cheap. Neither is machining a metal bracket going to be cheap. Most other projects I’ve seen are done by people with access to a metal lath and welding equipment (usually university labs)

        That’s why I was interested n the legrange kickstarter project but they wanted $300 for the truck which I think is about twice what I was willing to pay.

        Alternatively I’ve been thinking of maybe of buy the cheap a nasty truck with mount on ebay. However, thats not optimal and its still going to take some customisation to get it working. Oh well. I’ll keep you posted on my extremely slow progress.

    1. Thanks for the info. I not on your website. 12000mAh batteries. Paired with various brushed motors with a range of 18km.
      Metro-board has a 36V 5500mAh setup claiming 25km range with a 600w brushed motor.

      Battery and range difference claimed across the web make it hard to know how many is enough.

      Can I ask way brushed motors over brushless motor? I’ve seen brushed motors in a most commercial units?

  2. Hi Joe,
    Thanks for posting this blog. Looking at a similar project. Boosted boards has got me thinking!

    Brushless motors are superior and have only started making their way into e-skateboards (along with Li batteries) due to price drops.

    My limiting factor will be powering the wheels from the motor. I don’t have any machining experience. Looking forward to the belts and cogs post.

    Also curious about ground clearance issues and protective covers for batteries,esc and motors.


  3. The main problem is going to be the mounting of the motor. Unfortunately skateboard trucks are composite metal mainly aluminium, so welding is little different than normal steel welding.

    A friend has put me onto a mate of hist that does aluminium welding however, general life is getting in the way at the moment so I’m taking my time with this project. Hopefully he can help with making and welding the bracket at a decent price. I’ll keep the blog posted on how I go.

  4. hobbyking sells 4ch wifi recievers, that can be controlled from an andriod or apple phone. Planning on using it for my project, worth considering.

  5. I would like to know more about the “right” choice of motor. I did some reverse engineering on that “Magical Stanford-Engineered Electric Skateboard” (comment on techcrunch.com 😉 ).

    If you set in prospective the size of the wheels orangatang 75/56mm, the tracks, the Gates GT2 belt (3 mm Pitch, 77 Teeth, 9mm wide single sided neoprene belt with fiberglass cords, pitch length 231mm)……..you can assume that they use a motor of the size C4260 500KV or even smaller. Smaller would be something like a C4250 with 600KV.

    With 500 to 600KV they have a LOT LESS torque (I am not talking about the wattage). I would like to know more about the KV constant / torque of a brushless motor.

    KV refers to the rpm per Volt and defines the torque level. Motor size, energy consumption, space and mounting bracket are all connected. In general as smaller as the motor will be, you will have fewer problems with space and bracket……

    The motor here chosen has 2665W @ 30v and 380KV (d=50mm l=60mm). There is another NTM Prop Drive motors with 2400W @ 29.6v but 270KV. You can even get a Scorpion S-4035-250 (still d=49mm l=64mm) with 2700W and 250 KV ($$$$$).

    Soooooo???…….is someone able to illuminate this torque consideration ?

    As more torque as more current is drawn…..too much torque, belt will slip on the pulley…..electric speed controller is another question. Is the controller able to adjust high currents down to low levels to accelerate slow and smooth from zero or will it be always a more “snappy” acceleration with a high torque motor ?

    In the end you have only the reach of your thumb (maybe max. ¾ of an inch if you use a slider control) to adjust properly a smooth acceleration and speed……

    Can someone “quantify” the difference of torque between 250KV and 600KV and the “adjustability” of the controller ??

    Looks like the “Magical Stanford-Engineered Electric Skateboard” goes uphill in SF quite well with 500-600KV……still assumed that we talk about 2000 to 2700 Watt.

    1. Torque considerations… Good point. To be honest I was going to go for the “wing and a pray” model of motor selection.

      Been catching up on some google reading regarding brushless motors and torque but quantifiable torque looks to be a difficult one. So far in my reading anecdotal comments indicate that smaller kv / higher torque. However, that’s a long way from quantifiable.


      ESC are programmable. I’ve seen some interface with your computer to program so it does look like it would be feasible to program a smooth start like the “Magical Stanford-Engineered Electric Skateboard”. The interfaces I’ve seen to date doing some research don’t look brilliant but it should be possible.

      Not very helpful but let me know how you go with your research.

  6. im worried about run time. How do the LiPo batteries stack up to the traditional SLA in terms of run time. Some of the commercial boards advertise 10-15 miles per charge. Any idea on how this setup would compare?

    1. LiPo’s are far superior to SLA (sealed lead acid) batteries in a number of ways. Weight, size, charging and output. They’re quite cheap these days.

      Metro boards explains: http://www.metro-board.com/battery_powered_ultra_light_electric_skateboard_lifepo4.htm

      When looking at batteries there are two measures (apart from voltage of course)
      The mAh (Milliamps Hour or just Ah Amp hour) i.e. this is the measure of how long the batteries is going to output for. This is what your looking at for length of ride.
      C (constant discharge) how quickly it can supply the power.

      Now SLA are cheap (very old baterry technology) but remember the weight and size of these things is going to reduce your ride time (and they have a shorter shelf life).

      There is no way I would be putting SLA batteries on my skateboard they’re massive, poor performing and the minimal cost save doesn’t make up for it. (I’m saying that and I have free ones sitting around in an electric scooter)

      1. Thanks for addressing my question.
        Have you tried out any of the LiPo batteries as far as different Ah’s? I am trying to design my board and am trying to decide how big of batteries I will need to get since I don’t have a huge budget to guess and check. I would like it to be able to ride for at least a few miles before giving out. The motor and battery set up that you have listed above seems like it would not be able to sustain for very long. Any thoughts on an estimated ride time at least?

        1. Haven’t tried the batteries yet. I still need to find time to make it to the store to get the belt and cogs so I can finish mounting the motor. t

          eskateboard Cosmetics the board is running great fast 5000 mah battery getting 5 miles
          This guys gets 5 miles in NYC (which is pretty flat) which a chain drive. Good bearings and a belt drive should have less friction and better run time.

  7. Guys, I am confused at this point. Would like to order the motor but I can’t decide what to buy. Should I get this one NTM Prop Drive 50-60 Series 380KV / 2665W or Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 – 6364-245kv Brushless Outrunner Motor. I would like to get 8 to 10 miles….what would be a good battery that would last this range? Thank you!

    1. Really hard to say to judge distance, (I’m still building my board which is obvious from this blog). Distance is a factor of the boards performance and your terrain. Hills less mileage and flat better. Street board is better than mountain board, belt better than chain drive, good bearings better than bad bearings etc.

      Motor size is once again hard to define. Most commercial models are 800W brushed motors. Evolve board gets away with a 200W motor (gets great speed and distance), boosted boards are going for two motors with a total of 2000W and anther project went for two motors total 6000W (which they never get past 30% power for fear of death)

      Battery my recommendation start with 5000mAh. If that doesn’t work buy another one.

  8. For the battery can anyone recommend if Turnigy 5000mAh 6S 40C Lipo Pack would or better or should I get the Turnigy nano-tech 5000mah 6S 65~130C Lipo Pack and what will be a better choise for the ESC for this one of the better set ups that you recommend.

  9. I ordered the Turnigy 5000mAh 6S 40C Lipo Pack (two of them), Turnigy TrackStar 150A 1/8th Scale Brushless Car ESC and the Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 – 6364-245kv Brushless Outrunner Motor. I hope this set up will work for at least 12-15 miles. 25-30km/h is fine with me…

    1. Hey, I couldn’t find anything about the controller or ESC setup you used and I’m almost done with everything. I just want another source to check with.

      Could you please tell me what controller and ESC you used?

      1. Hey Matria801. Will have a look over the details tonight (At work at the moment and it was Mothers Day the day before here in Australia)

      2. I’m using my phone so this might be a different picture but its still me.

        Vitali, do you now want to give out information on your ESC and controller? That’s what I needed to know since I wanted to make sure my specs were close to yours.

        Alright, over and out. Thanks!

      3. Hey, The ESC and the controller I purchased are above. I don’t know about hte ESC that I used as it doesn’t have the most programming feature available which means that the acceleration is pretty twitchy.

        Controller was just the cheapest Hobby king one I could find. The link is above. It holds 8AA batteries which is a bit overkill given that it only has to transmit 1 meter

  10. Guys, I’ve been reading for about couple of days and I can’t figure out what kind of belt/cog wheels to buy. What should be the width/length of the belt type, number of teeth? Can anyone recommend a website with an exact belt and cog wheels to buy?
    Alternatively, I saw someone using DeWalt batteries on their longboards.
    I never used Lipo’s batteries and I see there are so many safety concerns….Do you guys know an alternative to lipo’s? How about Lifepo4 batteries (what specs should work for Turnigy SK3 6364 – 250kw)? I do have DeWalt tool and I want to use their batteries, what should I look for specs (what specs for – W,V, KW, mAh) are good for the Turnigy SK3 6364 250kw? Thank you guys!

    1. I don’t really know if 200A is necessary. Mine is 125A and I haven’t had a problem yet but I haven’t had a really long test ride just yet.

      Calculations for amps drawn by the motor above…..
      The motor handle 22.2v (well upto 26v) and esc tells me upto 7 cells is fine with it. Stacking up as 5000mAH, 25C = 100A which is fine with the max 90A drawn by the motor and 125A speed control.

  11. also a little confused on what the 6s or 7s on the battery voltage rating means so im wondering if you used two batteries in parallel would you exceed that or no

    1. 6s or 7s – s = the number of batteries in the pack, not your charger will have the maximium number of cells it can charge and the ESC will have a a maximium number of cells it can handle)
      v = is the battery voltage (but you motor also has a voltage requirement)
      c = the rate of discharge. ie how quickly it can give the power to the motor
      mah = how long it can give the power for.

      1. Guys,
        My ESC 150A just died last Saturday. Looking now for a more powerful ESC. Has anyone heard or read anything about the mamba monster?

  12. Hi, I’ve made an e-skateboard myself with the 50-50 580KV NTM motor, an RC car ESC and syncronous belt drive.

    I use 4s 5Ah LiPo and get 7 Km of range with top speed of 35 Km/h (I drive a 10 cm diameter rollerblade wheel through a 1:3.3 reduction). Acceleration and top speed are more than enough. Doubling the batteries (2 in parallel) will double the range. With your motor and batteries you’ll have a similar system but you’ll get more acceleration (more torque) which is good when going up. My system can’t climb up too much (I use it on flat streets and small bridges) so more torque is good and you have the right choice.

    A big issue is the ESC. Plane ESCs are very bad at syncronizing at low speed. I use a 160A 5s Turnigy Trackstar ESC with the cheapest car TX/RX system and that is good. You need to kick start anyway your system (I don’t have hall sensors in the motor) and push throttle slowly at low speed to avoid desynchronization. The thing is that high voltage cheap car ESCs don’t exist and plane ESCs might not work at low speed. Also if you get a car ESC, always go for a bigger one that needed (voltage-wise). if you have 6s look for a 7s or bigger. I heard a lot of people having problems when running escs with high motor loads at the limit of voltage.

    Hope this helps and good luck!

    1. Hey Augusto,
      Thanks for the info. A lower Kv would be a better idea.

      Interesting to hear about the RC car ESC. I haven’t heard much in the way of people working with standard RC ESC. Alien Power systems do some ones very specifically for high amp systems for things like electric bikes/scooter/skateboards but they’re very expensive. I’m interested to see how my cheap ESC handles. No programmable feature for this one which would have been good. But we;ll see how we go.

      Do you have any pictures etc of your project?
      Alternatively if you start a http://endless-sphere.com/forums/ with pictures and details it can be very helpful for people looking to make their own boards.

      1. Hi,
        unluckyly I have no pictures and I’m far from my skate now. The project was supposed to get into a full mountainboard with fancy metal mountings and so on. But as a started I mounted everythin on a piece of wood to see if speed and torque were enough. It’s 4 months that I’m moving around on this scratch ugly piece of wood because it’s working pretty good and I couldn’t find time to finish my motor mountings…

        I’d love to make a real post on endless sphere but spare time is now really impossible to find for me. I’ll see what I can do in the future.

        For now, this is the only picture in which you can see how it works…


        For belt and pulley I used T5 (12T and 40T pulleys) but the final one will have HTD5 belt on 15T and 64T (with a different motor also). T5 are ok but you really need to tension them properly, HTD5 looks more heavy duty…

  13. If you don’t need high speed and use a similar wheel size and reduction ratio I’d go for the 270KV option also. That would set you around 25 Km/h max speed but would be more powerful when going up hill, more reliable at low speed and easier to kick start. Also in summer my motor gets a quite hot after long runs at 75% throttle (which means I’d need more torque)

  14. About the motor just one question: We want the lowest rpm/v possible for at least 2500W right? Lower rpm is always better?

    1. Low kv (i would say under 300) but use the spreadsheet to calculate. Regarding watts. The evolveboards (which make really nice boards ) use 200w and most Chinese ones use 800w. 2500watts is allot. The motor I purchased was that but that much power is a bit of overkill.

    1. Hi Diogo, Sorry been so long getting back to you.
      …the ESC & motor you purchased have stats which give you a pretty good indication of what battery you should choose. The ESC can handle 2 to 6 cells of batteries. The motor wants 6 to 8 cells. When I talk cells (which hobbyking does) this also translates to volts.

      When looking to purchase batteries there are a few considerations:
      mAh = how long the battery will last for
      C = this is a rating of how quickly the battery can release its power. higher C is going to

      I purchased this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8586__ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_6S1P_25C.html
      HOWEVER, this has a really large profile effecting the boards clearance. You could purchase two 3 cell batteries for better clearance. There are sooooo many of these you will have to ask RC expert what the difference is but these look okay??? It comes down to price point a little bit.

      PS Some people have told me that LiPo’s are a little volatile (google it) so make sure you get the proper charger from hobbyking etc. However, other people on this same blog have told me that liPo’s are totally fine and stop being a pussy. While others have suggested that LiFepo4 a more stable. Personally, I have no idea…I’ve bashed the batteries with concrete curb a few times and they haven’t burned my house down yet. And I’m careful charging them.

      1. Hi thanks for your answer it was really helpful. Just one more question if I want to connect two battery packs how do I do that. Is it just connecting both and then one do the esc. Can you explain how I should proceed please?

    2. hey man i see you are using that YEP esc. recently i burnt my hk 150A esc and ought the YEp esc and i want to know how is it since you are using them =]. how is the start up, break function, and do they heat up when uphill?

  15. Hi thanks for your answer it was really helpful. Just one more question if I want to connect two battery packs how do I do that. Is it just connecting both and then one do the esc. Can you explain how I should proceed please?

  16. do you need an extra power supply for the receiver to work?..i have connected everything but it wont connect from transmitter to receiver

      1. i see. i have encountered a few more problems where
        1) the magnets from the motor came lose. do you have this problem?
        2) i have this problem where the transmitter and receiver constantly and randomly disconnects. and when they connect there is 1 or 2 sec of delay when trigger is pulled. when it starts the speed jumps to the amount i pull the trigger. both transmitter and receiver are using new batteries. any solution for that? could it be because of the amount of voltage coming from the 6S batteries that fried it?

  17. Hi,
    I’m intending to make an electric long board for a school project. I’m going to be running a dual motor setup similar to boosted’s setup. I want to use the following items for it:
    Motors: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__22409__Turnigy_TrackStar_1_8th_Sensored_Brushless_Motor_1900KV.html
    Escs: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17235__Hobby_King_120A_Sensored_Sensorless_Car_ESC_1_8_1_5_.html
    I know a lot about the battery aspect, so i don’t need help with that. I just would like your input about the setup, like what i should be expecting for power, what gearing I should use, and what speeds and torque would be expected from that setup.



    1. That motor is no good. You want to look for a motor with low kv (less than 300) check out my article on speed calculations it includes an excel document to calculate top speed.

      You want to aim for a low top speed as youll spend more time accelerating from 0-20kph than you will above that.

  18. i dont know very much about the electronics and i couldnt find any help so i was wondering if someone could make a tutorial video on how to make this with a components list that would help alot thank you

    1. I’m still curios about the distance of your long board? Nice setup by the way. I see that you use either the 5000mAh 65c or the 8000mAh 25c. Wouldn’t the 8000mAh last longer distance wise. Because the ESC is taking 150A and the battery can only provide eiter 5A in a hour or 8A in an hour. So this would mean you can’t travel long distance of 10 to 15 km. 🙁

  19. hey man after making my first electric skateboard which worked darn well (thanks ^_^) from referring to your blog i have moved on and made a new longboard and this time it has a set up of twin motor diagonally. the set up is 6 6S batteries in parallel and each motor would be using 3 batteries. this beast could take on hills with angles of 45-50 degrees with ease. i have been facing this same problem constantly where the switch could not take the amount of current going through and melted the parts inside the switch due to high current. i tried various switches and none of them seems to last few weeks. do you have any advice on that?

  20. getting straight to the question…I want speed for my longboard so I need more rpm witch means I need a big kv motor so why are you saying to get a motor with low kv woulnt that just make it slower?

    1. If you use the speed calculator excel spreadsheet found on this site you’ll find that even to get top speeds of 45kph you still need a low kV motor. You can just change the gearing a bit. Also the lower kV have more torque in the lower end. You’ve got to start at 0kph and it needs the torque to acellerate On 13/03/2014 2:54 PM, “How to make an electric skateboard” wrote:


  21. HI, i am new to all of this, but i really want to build a electric skateboard.
    I really need some help getting started.

    i have foud a mountain board i would like to buy(because of the terrain where i live)

    and after a looooooong time i found belts and cogs
    will 16teath x 80teath work? and a belt of 100 teath(500mm long)
    how would the speed, and the tension on the motor work?

    i have read a lot of guides now, but almost all are different, can someone pleas help me finding a motor and esc that would be durable with the board and the terrain? i would really like to get some speed on this, in a little rough terrain. The distance is also important. And also , would it be wise to have a dual motor setup for this?

    i am sorry about the pore english spelling.

    thanks fore any help:)

    1. Hi,
      Good question. To be honest I haven’t looked into much of the mountain boards as I wanted a street board. Most of the mountain boards I’ve seen are using a chain drive, some rather largish motors and more than one wheel drive.

      However, this isn’t too big of a motor:

      Evole boards is coming out with a new mountain board model which only has one wheel drive and a relatively small motor.

      Alien power system do some ESC with suited for dual wheel drives.

      The motor you linked I would think would have the power. To be honest all these little brushless motors have a ridiculous amount of power.

      For distance of belt/ cogs use SDP calaulator : here

      For speed calcualtor here is my little spreadsheet. note: 25kph feels very very fast.

      Good luck. i saw you posted in Endless sphere. Its a great blog for this.

  22. Basically how many of these ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 6S1P 25C I’d need to power the recommended motor and an extra 90 killos ontop for a little while at least ?

  23. so you are thinking two 5000 mha 8 cells baterie are enough
    for two 380 kv 2660 watt Motor ???
    and witch ESC should i use from Hobby king???

  24. I actually have a very stupid question…I am not really into this stuff but I am building an e-board. The idea was to use a motorbike battery (or 2 connected to get 24 V) to keep in a backpack. With this configuration the board would be lighter and a large battery would extend the mileage. Would the suggested configuration (especially ESC and controller) be suitable for such battery type and layout? Thanks in advance!

Comments are closed.